After a seven hour red eye, crammed like sardines in the middle of the aircraft, the plan was to get to the hotel, nap and then head to lunch. As it turned out, the noise reducing headphones, foot hammock and a pre-departure workout and hot shower at home had me sleeping like a baby! So… we were excited to explore the town as soon as we checked into the hotel!

To our first lunch spot.. a local bakery / popular lunch spot. High carbs I know, but one has to taste the local flavor – besides a rice n beans lunch would certainly have us snoring ASAP!

2 mushroom puffs, 1 tomato and cheese puff, 1 chicken empanadas, Maracuya (Passion fruit) juice – no sugar – paid a princely sum of USD 12. Now headed to taste some deliciouso churros

For the piece de resistance – Panamá Canal https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Panama_Canal. If you are like me, and have forgotten what you studied in school about the wonder of the modern world and the 8th wonder of the world, you are in for a treat! It is a marvel of engineering working with (rather than against) the force of water!

Did you know Panama used to be a territory of Colombia and when the French failed to build the canal President FDR sent troops to help the Panamanians get independence from Colombia and Panama was independent in one day!

Did you know that the first ship sailed across Panama in 1914 and went unnoticed by the world as that was the day WWI started?

Did you know President Carter was responsible was signing the canal operations over to Panamanians in 1971 and that was an unpopular decision from a US voter perspective?

Time for Casco Viejo – the old town of San Felipe – this is where the action used to be before Panama City came about. There is still action now, mostly tourist action – and home to the canal museum, 2 churches – San Jose and San Francisco, memorial to the French, acknowledging – albeit failed attempt at building the canal and some really good ceviche!

Post dinner drinks and nibbles at the roof top of Casa Casco! Was so great to see the locals swaying and salsa-ing – effortlessly with grace n swagger!

Some interesting sights by night

Day 2 – Panama City

Day 2 – Ruins of Panama Viejo, revisit Casco Viejo by day and a walk down Amador Causeway

Did you know that Captain Morgan (of the Capt Morgan rum fame) burned down the old city of Panama and do you know why? Outlander fans here is an interesting tidbit I learned later in the morning when we visited Hotel La Compania.

Now back to Panama Viejo – UNESCO heritage site – great place to get your steps in – be sure to have your sunscreen and lots of Aqua (water)!!

May flowers – have missed seeing them in Cali!

Some scenes from Casco Viejo by day

Amador Causeway – man made causeway built with the dirt hauled out when building the Panama Canal. Approx 4 miles long, has the famous Bio museo – dedicated to educating kids and tourists on the rich and delicate balance that makes Panama the rich place that it is.

Did you know that Panama was that last piece of land mass to emerge and connect the Americas? It is called an Isthmus ( back to school geography) and when this isthmus emerged, the species from the north and south travelled and some did not survive the journey.

Other sites on the causeway

Raspado – for those from Mumbai – think gola sherbet with condensed milk and no chaat masala – for the others – think shave ice with a local fruits syrup and condensed milk.

Last stop at Cinta Costera to take a final click before we head back to grab luggage and make our way to Cartagena!!!

Day 3 & 4 – Cartagena

I did not realize how close Cartagena was to the Caribbean islands, so no surprise about the African influence.

In addition, when the Spaniards conquered this city (the first Spanish colony in the Americas), they made it a port for slave trading and years later, Cartagena was the first sanctuary for freed slaves across the Americas. Simon Bolivar was largely responsible for driving the freedom of slaves in South America and for the independence of 6 southern American countries from the Spanish. Read more here – https://www.cuisinenoirmag.com/afro-colombian-culture-cartagena/

First impressions, our hotel room (Nacar, Hilton) reminded me of Marrakech and the lobby of the cave walkways in San Gimignano, they have integrated the old with the new very organically.

The town itself brings out mixed emotions, especially during the day when it is teeming with tourists from cruise ships.

The streets are narrow, walled by quaint and colorful houses, the roads itself could be better – and that sounds more like me with my first world outlook – so ignore that!

Cartagena has multiple plazas –

There ofcourse is one dedicated to Simon Bolivar (good looking chap😝)

One of my favorite sights, colorful voluptuous women with fruit laden heads dot the various squares, waiting to take a pic with you for a bit of cash!

Another favorite, a Botero sculpture at Plaza San Domingo

Some interesting sights across the other plazas and quaint streets

We did get to the wall, the building at the edge of the wall – was first a nunnery – where the nuns were cloistered, hidden from the outside world. So near, yet so far from the gorgeous blue sea

The theatre that stands there now was constructed on the ruins of the nunnery.

In the evening we headed to Celele in the Getsemani neighborhood – right outside the old city.

Of course I had to finish my Spanish lesson to maintain my streak

And what a meal it was at Celele

Highly recommend this place – bustling, friendly staff, open kitchen, great cocktails and fresh, delectable dishes.

We then wandered around the bustling neighborhood a bit before calling it a night

Tomorrow is another day! Buenos Noches!

Despite the late night, we were up at the crack of dawn to explore Castle San Felipe . It was 80F at 6:15am, the goal was to walk to the fort,

Walk up – a steepish quick climb, no biggie if you have been walking the Stanford dish.

What I liked the most were (a) lack of crowds because we were there right as the fort opened at 7am (b) walking through the interconnecting tunnels

Personally, what I enjoyed more was the sculpture of the old boots.

Both of us were really looking forward to lunch. Lunch was at

While the old city is what attracts tourists (and rightly so), you are doing yourself a dis service if you miss the energy, music, cocktails and salsa action at Cafe Havana!!!

Day 4 – Cartagena to Medellín (med-e-gin)

Ciao Cartegena! Tunes moi bien! off to Medellín, city of Narcos and Pablo Escobar. Flight time from C to M – approx. an hour.

At first blush, Medellín has all the urban elements and none of the nostalgic and romantic elements of old town Cartagena – a back to life, back to reality moment! First stop, the world famous Camuna 13!

Camuna – means district and district 13 was on the highway to the sea – making it a great location to smuggle contraband in and out of the city without getting caught by the cops! The residents of Camuna 13 were largely Colombians who were displaced from the villages when the rebel army took over the jungles and farms and shot down people who resisted their moves.

In the evening we had reservations at sambombi bistro local, highly recommended place, now on the Michelin discovery list in the Poblado neighborhood. all small plates at about $10 a piece.

Day 6 – Medellin to Bogota

Bogota food tour

Stop 1 – La cathedral – Empanadas – veggie options – Cheese and eggs. Delicious sauce bar.

Stop 2 – Bolivar Plaza – corn on the Cobb and sugarcane juice!

Stop 3 – Barbecued meats at Cafe Luna, arepa with cheese is the veggie option – we had the arepa

Stop 4 – Dessert – street side – waffles with blackberry jam, caramel and cream.

Colombian Hot Chocolate – typically had between 4-5pm to tide over until Dinner. The hot chocolate is made with milk and served with double cream cheese. You cut the cheese into small pieces and dunk it in the chocolate. Wait for it to melt a bit – spoon out the cheese, eat it and then wash it down with chocolate. Chocolate con queso. Followed this with a shot of Aguardiente – pineapple and anise liquor! Now to stumble on to get some premium Colombian Cafe!

Since we were so hungry after the tour (!!), we got back, changed and headed to MESA to kick off the birthday celebrations! (this is a WorldsBest50 Discovery restaurant, with a farm to table concept in the hep Chapinero neighborhood. Address is Calle 61, 5-56. Phone is +57-1-8051787)

Day 7: B-DAY the trigger for all this crazy, fun, travel!!

Thankfully (for me rather than the birthday boy!), we had an easy morning – no get up, rush and get out!

Enjoyed the view from our hotel room and made our way to the picturesque and quaint neighborhood of Usquaen.

Think of this as a art and wine festival with a backdrop of an old church and cobbled streets.

Lunch at Abasto. This was one of the best meals – IMO and the birthday boy was happy too!

One must not rest when in a new place – things to do, places to explore – so says the birthday boy and so shall be done. Post lunch we are off to Monserrate, a church on a hill top with breath taking vistas.

Finally, the moment Manish had been waiting for – an evening out at Andres. In his words – “Soak in the atmosphere over all the 5 floors of what is the most super happening place in the city – with live music, dancing on all floors, enthusiastic dancing/servers, etc. Plan to be here (doing a lot of dancing) till it is time to head back to the hotel” He later said, it felt like Bogota had got together to throw him a big bash.

Started off dancing to the party bus!

I have to admit I was deeply skeptical about a place that had 5 floors of craziness, but it was organized chaos – not meant for just a specific age group (assuming one 18yrs and older). There was music, dancing, tons of food and spirits floating around! Great energy.

Needless to say, the birthday boy ended the day with smiles

Day 8 – Adios Colombia! Tu es muy bonito!

“All done” you said with a stroke of a key
“Thank you for our time together. I have miles to go, great things to accomplish and laurels to achieve – without you”

YOU chased me, wooed me, the perfect synergy you said.
My experience, your reach,
together a superpower we will unleash,
Status quo disrupt
serve the world and
make an impact we must

You had me at disrupt,
For this opportunity I lust
Everything else is bust

Willingly I gave you my time,
My creativity,
My energy,
My agility,
My priority,
My dreams…
You took as much as I could give and said I could do better
I did more and then…
Just like that, with a stroke of key
we were history

You wrote goodbye in the still of the night
Hoping to dilute your slight in the din of daylight?

*Lucky for me I caught you right As the soft rays of dawn break daylight And in that magical hour I received a new power *

With a warm hug
The universe whispered
Pull that plug
You are free
Go “do you”
Whatever that might be..

A joyous gf’s weekend

Nourished my belly and my soul

Driving back home

Wind blowing through my hair

Sun warming my face

I smiled and I cried…

My heart full of love,

And I cried

All the challenges they met

With grace and courage they dealt

With quiet and relentless strength

They powered their loved ones at length

Their dreams at times alength

And now at their pinnacle

They resolve to remove all wrinkles

And dream anew with a twinkle

my heart beamed with pride

To be a sister in this tribe

And I cried….💕

Am I an abandoned object

Or a cherished place

Do I fade away in the sun

Or do I provide cherished dusky memories

Do I mold with each rolling fog

Or do I help you kiss the mist

Am I just stained and castaway

Or am I a treasured spot for stolen kisses

Will I be dumped and forgotten

Or will memories with me always draw a smile 💕

Warm summer night, back on a cool tiled floor, feet dipped in a pool, star gazing. Side by side with your bff, concocting a world of possibilities, untainted by cynicism, the here and now and responsibilities of tomorrow. No, these are not kids on a summer break, they are adults… 💕

I learned about the Lindy effect on a recent trip to London. Came up in the context of music, especially music in Indian Colleges, where the bands, albums, vinyls, tripping are passed down from seniors to juniors. Every year, a new crop comes in and every year the “chosen” juniors are indoctrinated and mentored in the “appreciation of music”. A rite of passage.

That music, those moments seep into their being, develop roots forming strong neural networks and bonds. That music, represents the best years of their lives (well at least for most).

So, years after college, when these younglings have younglings of their own, as they pass the baton, listen to that music, it transports them back to an un jaded time of youth, possibilities, love, laughter and a lightness of being.

So what has this got to do with Lindy you ask (I bet you thought Lindy was the senior who introduced my friend to music – LOL)

The Lindy effect (also known as Lindy’s Law^[1]) is a theorized phenomenon by which the future life expectancy of some non-perishable things, like a technology or an idea, is proportional to their current age. Thus, the Lindy effect proposes the longer a period something has survived to exist or be used in the present, it is also likely to have a longer remaining life expectancy.

Hence that music, that specific genre of music from the 60’s, the Woodstock classics, will be around, even after we are gone….

And just what does that have to do with London? Besides the fact that I learned about Lindy in London (love the way it rolls off my tongue), the city has stood strong for centuries, representing power, possibilities, adventure and rebellion. Growing up with the books I did, it also represents the thrilling romance and adventures of centuries gone by. Not to forget theatre, musicals, books, hidden treasures around street corners, boisterous pubs, and of course Ottolenghi.

And if you grew up in India, especially around Mumbai (Bombay), London feels like home (not the weather, the familiarity of architecture, language and railway stations) So every time I visit London, I know I will be back. The longer I wait to get back to London, the longer I will continue to revisit this gem. My London Lindy effect.

Where else do I see the non-perishable Lindy effect…the longer you have been friends with someone, the longer that friendship thrives….On the comforting note 💕

Words and actions, especially those said to me, only have the meaning and power I ascribe to them. 💕

Chalte chalte
Kabhi saath humsafar
Kabhi akele
Zindagi ke in do raahon par hein khadein

Bachpan beeta khushi khushi
Haalaaton ne kuchh jaldi hi hoshiyari (mature) laa di
Hum ne Kabool ki, khushi khushi

Yaaron, kya acchi jawani beeti
Yaar mile umra bhar ke liye
Ishk kiya aur pyaar mila janmon ke liye
Buzurgon ki duaon
Khwabon ko pura kiya

Ab hain hum in do raahon pe
Dil pacchis ka
Aur umra hain pachhas

Doori ab budhape se bahut hi kam
Aur jawaani se kuch Zyaada

Kya chalte rahein jawani ki raah
Ya kuch mude budhape ki taraf
In do raahon par hein khadein

Dil ne kaha
Yaara, yeh to golden umar hai
Jawani ka josh
Tajurbe ki hoshiyari
Umra ka aadar
Aish kar Lo
Yeh do raahon per phir se aana
Das salon ke baad!

Asterix, Nancy Drews, Famous Five, Hardy Boys, Archies comics and comics based on India mythology were staple afternoon fodder during the summer holidays. School closed late March and reopened the first week of June. We spent the first month of our holidays with my maternal grandmother and every first of May made the twenty four hour which very often could turn to a thirty hour train journey to Chennai to spend time with my paternal grandparents and cousins. More about that another day.

Even though it was the summer and school was closed we had a routine. We were allowed to sleep in until seven am! (My thoughts exactly!) Though it was impossible to sleep in after that. The Subrabadam (morning prayer chants) played at high volume on the radio cum cassette player or two-in-one, the maid was in a hurry to finish her morning chores I’d sweeping and washing utensils and rush to the next home, the blender created a delicious cacophony with spicy ingredients grinding their way to a chutney that would accompany delicious warm idlis (steamed rice dumplings) or dosas (savory rice pancake) and last but not the least, my mother muttering how a lazy I was, our neighbor’s daughter was up and helping her mother with household chores. Each morning I grudgingly peeled myself off the bed and my dreams, reluctantly shoved a cup of with milk with Bournvita (how I hated milk) and bathed to get ready for breakfast.

We had a highly regimented post breakfast routine. My brother and I had to work on math for an hour. The math exercises were age based, additions, subtractions, simple division and multiplication tables if you were younger and math problems involving simple equations and long divisions as you got older. After that, we had to practice handwriting. Then there was lunch after which my grandmother had her afternoon siesta. This was our time. This is when I devoured the books I would pick up from the local library or exchange with my friends. The books had a pecking order, for example, an Archies digest was equivalent to two comic books on Indian Mythology. A newer Nancy Drew or Hardy Boys (the one with real pictures versus drawing) were equal to two secret sevens or Famous fives and so on. While I followed these unwritten rules, I also had access to a secret stash of books that was not on anyone’s list. Old Readers Digests from 1950 – 1970. I encountered these by accident.

The bedroom in my grandmother’s house had a triangular corner. This corner was used to stash the additional floor mattresses needed when we had guests over. The corner was hidden behind a curtain, which also meant it was a corner where I could get some peace and quiet, cry when I was upset or hide from my annoying younger brother and friend. That sacred corner had a tiny wooden shelf stacked with papers and books. It had been there forever. One hot, boring afternoon, I decided to explore the contents of the shelf. I pulled down one stack. It was covered with a thick layer of brown dust. I carefully brushed off the dust away from the mattress and started leafing through the books.

It was Readers Digests that my father subscribed to before he his job took him to the Middle East. I read several short stories, and found them engaging even if I did not understand all of them. I read about ABBA, Stephen Hawking, the famous Indian actor Amitabh Bachchan, NASA and several others that I seemed to have forgotten. I read my favorite quote there “A ship that is anchored at harbor is safe but also goes nowhere”. That quote has been a principle that I have lived by. Where would I have found my guiding star but for that little wooden shelf in my grandma’s house?

💕